21 Days Later

Exactly one month ago, I finished teaching a ridiculous spate of intensive classes, the highlights of which included Savage Garden’s ‘Truly, Madly, Deeply’ and footage of Steve Irwin as valid and extremely relevant teaching devices. 

I celebrated my freedom, not by going out and getting wonderfully drunk, but by getting up at 6am the next morning to start my Summer break.

Over the following three weeks, I took 19 trains, 6 buses, 2 planes, 4 cars, 1 boat and 1 hot-air balloon. I travelled to England, Slovenia and Toulouse, and had friends visit me in Paris.

I caught up with pretty much all of my very best friends and family, and had an absolute blast. And you know what? It was all so freaking EDUCATIONAL. I learned so damned much. My horizons are broader, my eyes have been opened wider, I've gleaned knowledge with a capital K.

Not one to be selfish, I thought I’d share. Here, in no particular order, is the best of all the shit I found out this summer:

1. In Ljubljana, there is a superb water fountain in the shape of a kangaroo, so fashioned that in order to have a drink you have to snog the kangaroo. FUNNY.

2. Swans make a sound EXACTLY like a dinosaur if you dare to go near them or sit next to their lake or, you know, look at them.

3. French people like opinions. So, if you should find yourself sitting next to a French person on a 5 hour TGV train journey, be prepared to talk about the weather, the police, international train timetabling, sandwiches, the Royal Family and educational systems of the world.

4. Those small tubes of toothpaste you get on planes or as free samples from the dentist are WORSE THAN USELESS. And whatever is in them tastes revolting and IS NOT TOOTHPASTE.

5. Slovenia has more wasps than anywhere else in the universe. They will try to live in your beer and sit all over you. To protect yourself, you should wear red trousers and hang a paper-bag from a nearby tree.

6. I watched a video about how to tie the shoelaces on my trainers. Seriously. Look into it; you need to create a ‘heel-lock’. LIFE-CHANGING.

7. I watched for shooting-stars and meteor showers from two different locations (Lake Bled summer tobogganing slope, and the very beautiful arse-end of nowhere in Southern France); apparently it’s in your peripheral vision that you will see the action because that’s where you detect black and white.

8. I thought I was getting more independent and sure of my own mind as I get older; then a tiny old Slovenian woman broke me down and forced me into a rowing-boat in 20 seconds flat. I am WEAK.

9. There is a tiny sleepy village in France where nothing happens all year, except for a couple of weeks in August when 250,000 people come to the Marciac Jazz Festival. It was incroyable.

10. Not much in Slovenia will kill you. In fact, the doctors say you only have to worry about snakes if they BITE YOU IN THE FACE. And the scorpions are so laidback that hospitals don’t even bother to carry the anti-venom. SUPER.

11. Paris has the world’s biggest hot-air balloon, and you’re more than welcome to go up in it for 10 minutes to admire the view. You are not, however, allowed to take your ice-cream. But if you smile nicely and complain a lot, maybe they’ll make an exception. So when you then drop it, you’d probably better scoop it off the floor of the basket and eat it anyway, right Daisy?

12. At a clog-maker’s workshop in the Pyrenees (YES!), I learned about some special regional clogs with impressively long pointing-up toe bits. They used to be weapons of war but are now mainly used for dancing.

13. Slovenians are the best at naming flavours of ice-cream; collectively, we tried Cream Cake, Bled Bell Ringer and Grandma Cream.

14. My friends are great. They had amazing stories to tell me about Peru, Rome, San Francisco, Africa, Vegas and Japan, not to mention newly-hatched travel plans for Sri Lanka. They’re all busy being super and successful, starting businesses, raising tiny babies, getting promotions, buying houses, being pregnant, and I’m incredibly proud of all of them.

15. Don’t get me wrong. They’re also completely mental. One of them confessed to compulsively tidying up public toilets when he’s in them, another gets a daily email to tell her what NASA are up to, and one spent most of his childhood in an imagined world peopled by Lion-O from the Thundercats and most of the Transformers. And it turns out that in 2 couples I know (who don’t know each other, incidentally) the boy makes an unusual bird-call sort of a noise to attract the attention of the girl when in a busy environment like a shop. Sure.

16. Most of all though, I realised how fricking creative and interesting my friends are. Thanks to them, I’ve debated the ins and outs of the SheWee, been privy to 2 dystopian screenplay-plots that I hope get written, and learned about Disney imagineers, cheese-storage and Louisiana voodoo.

Guys, THANK YOU all for 21 amazing days. I am infinitely wiser and happier due to every last one of you.

Croatia: Spellbinding. Intoxicating. Hysteria-inducing.

In September, I went on holiday with my friend Daisy. It was a fun trip, so I thought you might like to hear the highlights. I’ve been trying to write the opening paragraph. My notes read as follows:

Punched in neck. Larry Grayson. Wine under fluorescent strip-lighting. Leaky shampoo.

Hmm. I’m suddenly concerned that the trip might have been more traumatic than I recall. Especially given that all this happened before the plane took off.

The plan had been simple. Take backpacks to show everyone how young and intrepid we are. Get to the airport nice and early to smugly enjoy over-priced pre-holiday we-deserve-this drinks.

The reality had not quite lived up to this. During their affectionate farewell at the train station, Daisy’s boyfriend somehow punched her in the neck. The check-in man had inexplicably felt the need to say, ‘Shut that door,’ a reference both Daisy and I were mortified to be old enough to recognise. The ridiculous queues at both Security and the Terminal 2 bar were so upsetting we ended up knocking back vile white wine under the oppressive glare of canteen lighting at the airport equivalent of a truck-stop. And the less said about the toiletry explosion in my luggage the better.

Not the most auspicious of beginnings to our adventure. Positively rocky, you might say. Don’t worry; it picks up later on.

We started with a few days on Korčula, a beautifully picturesque island off the Dalmatian coast, followed by a 3-night sojourn in Dubrovnik. Let’s start with Korčula. First, the history. Marco Polo might have come from there. Well, he definitely visited once, and there is a family named Polo who have lived there for years. And apparently, that's proof enough.

And now the culture. Korčula Old Town is a mini-Dubrovnik. We wandered the narrow streets, marvelling at the stunning buildings of butter-coloured stone. We swam in the clear calm waters of the Adriatic. One evening, we climbed up an erstwhile wartime lookout tower that now serves great cocktails. Oh, and then Daisy fell off a commemorative cannon.

The next day we got caught in an almighty downpour over lunch. Naturally, we did what any self-respecting Brits would do, pretended it wasn’t raining and carried on eating. It’s a shame we didn’t notice our guidebook swimming in a nearby puddle. The pristine guidebook Daisy had been lent by a kindly old professor colleague. I can only imagine his pained wince when she returned it to him.

And then on to Dubrovnik. Ah, Dubrovnik. If you haven’t been, go. It’s great. There is seafood. There were peacocks. Ice-creams are apparently bigger there than anywhere else. In the evenings, live music plays in the square, inspiring couples to spontaneously begin dancing. One night we were taking a turn around the port and were delighted to hear some kind of male-voice choir taking advantage of the acoustics inside an old stone bastion to sing Croatian folk songs. We rounded the corner to find the a capella group was made up of youths in hoodies, bewitching an audience of middle-aged tourists. A magical moment.

And that’s the thing. Croatia was full of incredible enchanting moments. We were sipping prosecco one afternoon at a bar ingeniously carved into the rocky walls of the city, taking in the sunset and watching dolphins plashing in the sea below. Daisy was so overwhelmed she proposed to me. Well someone should, she said. It feels like the thing to do.

It was an idyllic week, albeit one that occasionally seemed to be masquerading as a farcical comedy of errors. I leave you with the final episode of our adventure. We called on the owner of our rented apartment to return the key. A mysterious character, she seemed to spend her days chain-smoking, incessantly laundering towels and buying up Smurfs 2 merchandise for her grandchildren. Unexpectedly, she invited us in to try a cake she had made.

Ooh, what kind? asked Daisy, politely. You will see, she muttered darkly. And see we did. It was rum cake. Or Rhum Cake, as I prefer to imagine it spelled in Croatian. And more rum than cake, if you ask me. British to the end, Daisy and I both studiously powered our way through the rum-soaked confection that resembled flammable custard more than anything else. And then happily tripped off to catch the bus to the airport, slightly drunk and inadvertently interrupting someone’s wedding photographs on the way. Sounds about right.